Forrest Asmus
I live within a
2-hour drive of Forsyth, Montana where the first of these type matches was
held back in 1991 as proposed by Al Lee of the Forsyth Rifle and Pistol
Club. Al called his match the Quigley Down Under Long Range Buffalo Rifle
Match and organized it according to his own preferences. Since that time
things have changed somewhat but the match itself and the many others that
have arisen around these parts since then are in the same spirit and use
essentially the same rules for shooting that Al set forth at the
beginning.
Since the matches
are a great deal of fun to shoot in there has been a continual increase in
the size of the Quigley match and other clubs around my four state area
have started their own Buffalo Rifle matches as well. The need for some
insight or recommendations about how a Rifleman might prepare for going to
one of these gatherings for the first time is appropriate.
Al always says the
first and only rule at Quigley is to "Have Fun!" All other information is
for organizational purposes only. I've always liked that and I will use
this "Information" as a guideline for introducing Buffalo Rifles to those
shooters who are interested but inexperienced along those lines.
Equipment is first.
For this type match you may use any traditional single shot or tubular
magazine lever operated rifle. The key word here is "any": With the
exception of single shot bolt guns you can shoot anything from the H&R "Handirifle"
right on up to one-off custom single shots. You may shoot Millers, Rugers,
modern reproductions of all kinds and ancient but shootable originals.
Muzzle loading "slug guns" are permitted as well! If it is of .375 nominal
bore size or greater and safe, you are welcome to use it.
Along with the rifle
goes choice of sights. This portion of the "information" is pretty easy to
understand but winds up being a very critical not only for the type of
sight but how much money you have to invest in supposedly "simple" iron
sights. The information reads: "Any" two piece metallic sight, (no tube
sights). The simplest solution I've seen for the sighting requirement is
the old as-issued "ladder" sights on Trap-Door Springfield rifles.
What a fellow really
needs for a rear sight, and this is pretty much a minimum requirement, is
some sort of tall, rugged tang mounted sight capable of about 2½ to 3
inches of elevation over the centerline of the bore, depending on the
height of the front sight itself. In addition to the elevation necessary
such a sight must also be capable of at least ¼ of a degree (15 MOA)
adjustment left and right of center for windage. One of the adjustable
aperture peep disks is a very good addition to the rig. The ability to
adjust for ambient lighting conditions as they change right on the firing
line is a fine thing to have.
For the front sight
it is pretty much required to have a spirit-level globe type front sight
capable of adjustment for windage. These sights come with an assortment of
inserts, allowing the shooter to select various designs for their front
sight. The manufacturer normally supplies apertures of various sizes,
posts of various widths and "pinheads" for those so inclined. Some of the
options I have seen remain quite mysterious! But no doubt someone finds
them useful.
The part of the
"information" I like best is where "Any safe powder charge" is
permissible, using "Any lead bullet". Swaged or cast bullets are OK. Plain
base, paper patched or gas checked bullets are OK. Black Powder or
smokeless powders are OK, to include duplex loads of smokeless and black.
All things, it seems, are permitted so far as loads are concerned and this
allows shooters to pick the combination they believe to be the best, load
it up and go shooting with no questions asked.
In practice down on
the firing line there are more shooters using smokeless loads than black
but there is no contention between the competitors about which is "best".
The question has little importance, palling to insignificance as compared
say to how much wind is blowing at a given moment.
For me the very
heart of this type of shooting is the casting, loading and shooting of
bullets that are made for the game. I was advised when I began to load and
shoot at long range to “shoot the heaviest bullet you can”. This advise
was well intended since long, heavy bullets resist wind drift better than
light bullets do and it is valid up to a point but I soon found a shooter
can have too much of a good thing as I looked at paper targets made at 500
meters showing badly out-of-round bullet holes made with 410 grain bullets
in my 40/65 Ballard: The bullets were inadequately stabilized in the 18
inch twist of my barrel.
I won’t go on and on
about bullet stability and barrel twist. The subject is well traveled by
many others elsewhere. I only want to say, and say firmly, emphatically,
that a barrel must have a twist fast enough to keep your bullet point-on
over the whole distance. The minimum twist needed for any 375 or 40
caliber rifle I might undertake would be 14. I like the 16 inch twist in
44 and 45 caliber even though some very good shooting is done with 18 inch
twists in 45/70. For the 50 caliber I like a 20 inch twist even though
others say 24 or even 26 is fast enough. In short, I prefer to err on the
fast side of “good enough”.
I shoot mainly
smokeless powder in my rifles and I have found certain combinations to be
successful not only in my rifles but in several others as well. I might
even venture far enough to say that the big straight cases used in Buffalo
Rifle shooting and the rifles they are chambered in seem to accept certain
standard loading combinations more readily than the typical high power
rifles using bottle neck cases.
This subject of
loading smokeless powder into the rather spacious cartridge cases intended
for shooting black power in rifles mainly designed in the black power era
is an area requiring a certain discretion or disclaimer of responsibility
since safety enters into the area of consideration right away.
I will write about
smokeless loads that have worked for myself and others for many, many tens
of thousands of shots in our buffalo rifles with never a problem but
always keep in mind that I do not recommend them for use in your rifle.
That must always be your choice and your choice alone.
That being said I
will say that I have found the large cases such as 45/70 or 44/63 or 40/65
will always perform better when the smokeless powder is loaded with some
sort of inert material filling the extra volume in these big cases.
Some of these
combinations are things like 27 grains of MP5744, or 21 grains SR4759 in
the 45/70, filled with about one eighth to one forth sheet of normal
toilet paper, packed or tamped uniformly on top of the powder, toped with
a card wad of 0.050 thickness and the typical 500 to 540 grain bullet over
it all. Charmin is best (really!) since it has the most volume of them
all. Other shooters use polyester type fillers. Things like Dacron or
kapok are also commonly used to fill the big cases. The function of these
fillers is mainly to position the power uniformly within the case. They
provide only marginal gas sealing properties but are better than nothing
at all.
Other inert fillers
are in use as well. I have found that some granulated cereals such as corn
meal or Cream-of-Wheat or hominy grits will do a fine job of filling the
unused spaces of big cases and they provide excellent gas sealing
properties too: Never a problem with leading when shooting cereal fillers!
Cereals in straight wall cases work quite well. They have noticeable
weight of course and such weight will show up in loading combinations as
additional projectile weight; you have to add it to whatever your bullet
weighs in considering the amount of power selected for the load.
When working up a
load that you intend to shoot over the extended distances used in buffalo
rifle shooting the criteria should be slanted not perhaps for ultimate
accuracy at 100 or even 200 yards but for the maximum range you intend to
shoot over. This, as we have mentioned, is somewhere between 750 to 850
yards. A load that shoots well at close range may very well fall apart at
extended distances. Since many (or most) shooters do not have rifle ranges
available that extend that far it is very important to work not only for
accuracy but also for the very smallest Standard Deviation of velocity you
can manage for a given loading combination. One of the main
characteristics of black power is that it may be loaded to combinations
that provide SD’s in the single digits. Things like 4 or 6 ft/sec SD are
much more easily accomplished in black power shooting than they are in
smokeless and this is one of the outstanding reasons shooters continue to
have such excellent success with it.
An "ideal" load
would be one that shoots right around 1250 ft/sec with a SD of 10 or less
giving at least 2 minute accuracy as far out as you have range to prove
it.
Once such a
combination is identified shoot it over the course of several months to
see how various changes in conditions affect its performance. A good load
should shoot well right through the range of temperatures that you
yourself find acceptable for your sport. For example I shoot the same
loads in my rifles as from as cool as 35 degrees right on up to 100+,
which is all too common out on the Montana prairie in the summertime!
As these things
indicate, buffalo rifle shooting is not a sport where you are endlessly
playing with different loading combinations. Pick a good one and use it
all year. Shoot as much as you possibly can over long range to acquire and
improve your ability to judge "condition" for that is the area of most
critical importance!
When comes the time
to attend your first Buffalo rifle match you should remember that these
matches are meant to be fun. There is no classification system of
shooters, just show up and lay your money down, usually no more than $20
and you're done.
Once on the ground
you will see lots of folks running around with rifles, spotting scopes,
ammunition, cross sticks and usually something to sit on.
What you settle on
for your own use should be considered along the lines of how much material
you need to pack up and down the firing line.
The "typical"
Buffalo Rifle match is run across a fair amount of prairie. The targets,
usually 6 to 8 steel silhouettes, will be arranged along a line on the
order of about ½ mile long or more. The targets are usually set up on one
side of a hill or one side of a valley and the firing positions are set up
on a two-track dirt road facing them at intervals of 2 or 300 yards.
Taking myself as an
example of a shooter that travels relatively light I recommend that some
sort of cart be used to haul all the stuff needed along with you. I use a
modified dolly to hold my rifle, spotting scope, tripod, ammunition and a
lawn chair. This way I can roll along the two-track road to the various
firing points with everything I need with relative ease. Some shooters
make or buy large shooting carts that hold as much as a light pickup
truck. Others make do by hand carrying only the bare minimum of equipment
along with them, its your choice.
Distances to the
targets are always non-standard. Things like 781 yards to the Quigley
buffalo or 376 yards to the "small diamond" are the norm. You will never
find even distances such as 200, 300 or 500 yards. At various matches the
target shapes are unique. Geometrical shapes dominate at Quigley, at
others animal shapes such as antelope, bears or deer are seen. At yet
others somewhat irregular shapes reminding a man of doors off armored
cars, or the state of Illinois come into sight. All of these odd shapes
are sometimes difficult to acquire and maintain consistent sight pictures
on as compared to typical bullseye targets.
The matches are run
by dividing the shooters into groups, which are then assigned their
targets. These shooters are then divided into squads of 4 to 6 who will
fire in rotation at the target. The shooters that are not actively
shooting at a given time always provide their services to the firing line
by guessing "condition" and spotting hits or misses for the fellows doing
the shooting at the time.
Matches are scored
by hits. Any hit that rings the steel is good for score, including
ricochets. Ties are broken by the greatest number of hits on the most
difficult targets. Offhand being the toughest, then the longest distance
and so forth.
The sport is run in
an open friendly way, there is light interest in dressing "period" but it
isn't required. Many shooters come to meet and renew friendships and to
learn more. At the big matches there are always vendors selling various
items deemed nice or necessary. Small towns of campers, trailers and tents
appear on the prairie during the mach shooting all full of the kind of
people you'd like to be with all the time.